Malaysia, Day 13: On the Road

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My hotel was so annoying that I decided to hit the road rather than relax a day or two in KL. I rented a car from Budget and drove north. I like to do this--driving is a decent way of experiencing a country.

It also was a triple whammy challenge or so I thought: a different country with different driving behavior, driving on the left side, and back to the stick shift. None of this turned out to be a problem, except for the signaling lights switch, which is on the right side of the steering wheel, while the switch for the windshield wipers is on the left side. I don't know how often I wanted to signal going left and switched on the wipers instead.

Maybe this is also the reason why the other drivers weren't using their signals at all. While I was still driving in KL, Malaysian drivers didn't seem to be much different from drivers in Boston or Hamburg, certainly not more aggressive. The only difference I observed was that they ignore signaling and leave the lane concept in the abstract, switching lanes left and right or just driving on the lane marker. I probably confused the hell out of them, as I used the signaling lights and tended to stay in my lane. If I'm not mistaken, I even made the evening news: "Attention, foreign driver sighted heading north on Rt 1. He is using the signals and stays in his lane. Take utmost caution."

Roads are well maintained, certainly better than those of "pothole city" Charlestown in the Boston area.

Once in the countryside, I finally learned why Malaysia is the country with the highest number of frontal car collisions in the world. For the first hour or so I was constantly holding my breath. Overtaking must be a national sport. You have to see it to believe it, so close your eyes and picture this: A country road with only one lane in each direction. On the left, a bike. Right next to it, a moped. Right next to that, a truck. Finally, partly driving on the shoulder of the opposite lane, a passenger car. All moving at different speeds, trying to overtake each other. And only two hundred meter ahead, the same scenario, headed the other direction. It is like a swarm of bees, assembling for a complicated maneouver, dissipating shortly before the collision, only to form the same maneouver shortly thereafter, with new players.

Given this training, I wonder why there aren't many more successful Malaysian race car drivers. My best guess is they die young before they reach their bloom.

I arrived in Ipoh, my destination for today, in good shape. My first impression was not too positive: a rather industrial city, quite dirty and filthy, with little interesting to offer. At night, it became more alive and more interesting. I didn't explore it too much though. I watched soccer on TV, and when I saw that Germany was leading 4 : 0, I figured I had fulfilled my patriotic duties and went for dinner.

After two weeks of fried rice or noodles, I decided to go to McDonalds, where I had a cheeseburger and a McFloat. For the Non-Malaysians among you, a McFloat is something brownish with large blobs in it, that is to say a coke with ice. Isn't this funny? But which British gentleman would have thought there once would be a company that sounds like "skiver" or a conference named "plop".

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